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Would you like the BumbleJax man to create a gallery quality masterpiece with your digital photo like the one in the video?  We mount to acrylic/plexiglass (including 1″ blocks!), aluminum, bamboo, dibond or gatorfoam.  Each piece is hand-crafted with your satisfaction guaranteed right here in our Seattle shop.  Check out over 500 testimonials from our satisfied customers.

Get started today!  Just head over to our configuration system, choose your product tab, upload your photo, select the size, then any options or upgrades and he’ll take care of the rest, working his magic to create your wall art wonder.

See the acrylic prints process at Youtube along with all our other videos.


Over the years we have found that most customers aren’t aware they can view their images at actual print size in photoshop and if they are, they aren’t doing it properly so that’s the basis for today’s post.  There are a few steps to calibrating Photoshop properly so that the view you see when going to View — Print Size is the actual print size.

The Big Problem – Photoshop Doesn’t Know Your Screen Resolution

If you simply go to View — Print Size it’s going to show you the image zoomed in to your print size, but based on the default screen resolution within Photoshop of 72 ppi.  You will need to find out what your screen resolution is and make the change in the Photoshop settings which we’ll get to in a bit.

Sample Image Showing Print Size of 9×3.5″ at Screen Resolution of 72 PPI.  Notice how small it is and you’ll find in this case it actually zooms out rather  than in.  That is the first clue something is wrong!


Sample Image Showing Print Size of 9×3.5″ at Correct Screen Resolution of 128 PPI. Your screen resolution may differ from mine but most will most likely be in the 120-130 range.  Below is a screenshot of Photoshop previewing the image at actual print size correctly.


So there you have it!  You can see what a big difference it makes when Photoshop isn’t properly calibrated to view at print size.

Determine Your Screen Resolution And Fix It!

1.  Measure your laptop/pc screen horizontally in inches.  Just the screen itself.  For example, on my Macbook Air the horizontal  measurement is 11.25″ across.


2.  Make sure monitor is in native resolution.  On most PC’s you can right click on the desktop to get to display settings and on the Mac you can go to Apple Icon (upper left) — About This Mac — More Info.  This will display your screen resolution in pixels (image 1).  On my Macbook Air you can see the screen resolution is 1440×900 and if you click Display Preferences on that screen you can change the screen resolution.  You want to leave it in its native default resolution which is “Best For Display” or 1440×900.


3.  Now do the math!  Now that you know the length of your screen horizontally in inches (in this case 11.25″) and the the number of pixels horizontally (always first number in pixel dimension so in this case 1440) to determine your screen PPI or pixels per inch.

So divide 1440 pixels / 11.25 inches =  128 pixels/inch (PPI).

4.  Update PPI setting in Photoshop.  Heading down the home stretch here .. Find your “Units & Rulers” section.  Depending on your version and whether you’re on a PC or Mac it will either be under Photoshop – Preferences or Edit – Preferences.  You will see the screen below or something very similar. Next to “Screen Resolution” simply put in the PPI you just calculated for your monitor which in my case was 128.  Hit save and your done!


5.  Verify everything is correct!  Upload an image into Photoshop.  If you don’t see the Ruler at the top, enable it by going to View – Rulers and selecting it.  If everything is setup properly the ruler you have there in photoshop should represent a real inch.  Get a ruler or tape measure and make sure and inch is an inch!  If so, well done! Now you can begin viewing all your photos at actual print size in any print size.


6.  Change your print size and view at print size.  To view the current print size and/or change it just go to Image — Image size and make sure it’s in inches as shown in the below screenshot.  You can change to the print size you want then go to View – Print Size and it will zoom in so you can see how the image will look at actual print size.


7.  Generally speaking how large can I print?  That’s a question we get several times a day and it’s not an easy answer since there are quite a few variables involved, the most important being the quality of the camera.  It’s also important to know that artificially resizing an image in Photoshop will not improve print quality much if at all (at least not that the eye can see).   What matters are the native pixels off the camera.  Taking this image as an example and assuming the native pixel dimension is 2722×1102 (which it is), we’ll start viewing the print at 100 PPI to see how it looks.  So in this case about 27×11″.

It was taken with a quality camera and I see it looks really good at 27×11″ so I’ll go another 5″ or so to 32×13″ and it still looks real sharp at 85 PPI.  This is typically about where we might see resolution issues even with quality cameras.  However, this particular image enlarges really well and can be printed at high quality at 37 – 40″ even though PPI is quite low around 70.  Here is a screenshot showing a portion of the image at 40×16.  It’s unusual to print at PPI below 85 or so, but the point is that the quality of the camera is huge.  You won’t be printing most iPhone photos below 100 PPI.


8.  Don’t degrade your images – edit as RAW or TIFF.  Be sure to do all your editing as RAW or TIFF and only make a final save as a JPEG.  JPEG’s are great because they’re easier to move around (much smaller file = faster upload to us!) and there is no visible loss in quality when printing.  Just remember that only the final save should be as JPEG since each edit and save as a JPEG will degrade the quality of the image.  .


peter lik photographer

For renowned Australian landscape photographer Peter Lik, the future was handed to him on his eighth birthday when he got a Kodak Brownie box camera as a gift. The first photo he took with that camera was that of a spider web in his family’s home garden. That photo was followed by many others for Peter who brought his camera with him wherever he went. Born in Melbourne, Australia to Czech immigrant parents, this hard working artist was self-taught.  The 8-year old boy with the Kodak Brownie box camera is now an internationally acclaimed panoramic landscape photographer.  He is one of the 21st century’s most influential and most collected artists. Celebrities and political personalities look for his work.

The United States and Australia

1984 marked an important milestone in the life of Peter. This was the year when he decided to embark on a life-defining journey and travel to the United States. When he was introduced to the medium format panoramic camera, Peter decided to take his photography to greater heights. But first, he had to go back to Australia.

Back in his land of birth, Peter captured the Great South Land in breathtaking photographic scenes. Cairns became the home of his first gallery. It was also here where Peter established his publishing company.

In 1989, Peter went back to the United States and embarked on an adventure that would put his name on the map – in big, bold letters. He photographed all 50 states in America and printed the photos in a book that was published five years later. Peter’s book,  Spirit of America, chronicles his exciting American adventure.

When Peter decided to move to Las Vegas, it was also the start of  LIK USA. After opening four galleries in the Sin City, he opened nine more in different parts of the US. Peter also has one gallery in Queensland.

Master Photographer

Peter’s photography style is his own. This is the main reason why his galleries attract thousands upon thousands of visitors everyday. His work has been described – in many occasions – as artistically composed, exquisite, amazing and incredible. He is undisputedly the master when it comes to nature and landscape photography. His pictures draw the audience in, as if trying to whisper something. The images and scenes are stunning. Peter’ photographs are visually appealing; the colors come to life.

Two of his most popular works are “One” (which was sold for a million dollars – his first) and “Ghost”, which was taken in Arizona’s Antelope Canyon and won the 2010 Windland Smith Rice International Awards for Nature’s Best Photography (Art in Nature category). The winning photograph was exhibited at the Smithsonian Institution National Museum of Natural History.


Peter Lik is the recipient of numerous awards from various photography organizations and groups. Two of his most cherished awards are the ones given by the Australian Institute of Professional Photography and the Professional Photographers of America. These awards cemented his reputation as a Master Photographer.

Aside from awards, Peter also has fellowships from two prestigious groups: The Royal Photographic Society or RPS and the British Institute of Professional Photographers.

Bringing The Photos To Life With Acrylic Face Mounting

A question we get a lot here at Bumblejax is “Are you familiar with Peter Lik?  I want to present my photography in the same stunning way using acrylic!”  Our answer of course is always a resounding, “YES we can do it for you!”  In addition to producing stunning photography, it’s well known that Peter differentiates himself from other photographers by presenting his work in a unique and modern way using the acrylic face mounting process.  There are just a handful of companies in the US providing this service with exceptional quality and we’re proud to say that we’re one of them up here in Seattle!  This is a process that we specialize in and have been working with photographers all over the world who are looking for new ways to display their work and stand out in galleries.

So what’s the big deal with acrylic face mounting you ask?  If I could boil it down to really two key differentiators I’d say the first is that acrylic has unique properties that allow light to refract within the acrylic, illuminating the image in the right light.  This isn’t something that glass provides as light simply passes through.  The other key differentiator is that the image is the star in this presentation with zero distraction from a frame around the image or any kind of hardware such as stand off bolts in the corner.  We print your photo to high grade photo paper (satin or metallic), then the print is face mounted to the acrylic so that you are looking through the acrylic at your image.  To complete the modern look we add kiln dried doug fir floater blocks to the back so that it appears as if this vibrant piece is floating in air on your wall.  Here’s a look at an acrylic print we did for a customer who captured a vibrant shot of Chihuly’s glass installation at the Bellagio in Vegas.

chihuly bellagio acrylic print

The beauty of this kind photo presentation can’t be fully appreciated with pictures and video on a webpage unfortunately.  As much as we try to give a full perspective of how it’s going to look it really needs to be seen in person.  The pop that you see in the image.  The WOW responses we receive from customers when they open their Bumblejax package is only a result of seeing it in the flesh and on the wall.

Would you like the Peter Lik treatment on your photos?  We’d love to produce one for you!  You can see all the details of our acrylic print product here.  We offer 50% off on a first order for pro photographers along with many other benefits.  If you’re not a pro photographer and just want a piece of gallery quality art using your own photo you can get 10% off on your first order by signing up for our newsletter on the home page.  We also provide bulk order discounting!  We look forward to hearing from you so contact us today if you have any questions about our process or pricing.


underwater photographyOuter space and the deep blue sea are the two most elusive frontiers we have to explore, and thanks to changing technology, at least one is getting easier for the average Joe.

Over a century ago, photographer William Thompson took the first-ever underwater photograph of a blurry bundle of seaweed in the shallows of south England. Louis Bouton took the first clearly focused photograph nearly forty years later.  Both photographers used well-sealed boxes to execute their shots.  The first true underwater photography device was invented years later by an American photojournalist named Jack Williamson in the early 1900’s, and eventually the technology evolved.  National Geographic published the first underwater color images in 1927.

At this point in time equipment was not only extremely rare, but also bulky and difficult to use. Soon after, Jacques Cousteau and Emile Gagnan, inventors of the aqualung, began developing more user-friendly equipment with other divers. It wasn’t until 1957 when Cousteau teamed up with Belgian inventor Jean de Wouters to create the Calypso 35mm underwater range finder that the future of subaquatic photography was clearly seen.

Throughout the 70’s and 80’s Nat Geo was the go-to source for underwater photography.  For those dwelling inland, these photos were their only source of aquatic visuals apart from vacation snorkeling, trips to the aquarium and the household goldfish.  Today, we live in an era of rapidly expanding accessibility to aquatic photography.

In the last few years we have seen a rise in the production of waterproof point-and-shoot camera’s and housings for DSLR’s, video cameras and even iPhones.  Let’s take a look at several devices that put the possibilities of underwater photography in even the most budget-strapped hands, leaving you no choice but to get out there and start shooting.

The iPhone has had several underwater housings developed for it since its creation in 2007. With the iPhone boasting an 8MP camera with light sensitive tap-to-focus and an f/2.2 aperture, the least one can do is get some cool shots of the kids in the pool. There are several cases on the market worth having a look at, and none of them will set you back more than $110.

Here are a few:

Lifeproof case:

  • $40 and submersible up to 6 feet.


Griffin Survivor + Catalyst:

  • $44 and submersible up to 10 feet.


Otterbox Armor:

  • $53.90 and submersible up to 6.6 feet.


Watershot Housing:

  • $109.98 and submersible up to an impressive 130 feet.


I personally used the Lifeproof case while snorkeling in the Bahamas a couple months back, and it seemed to work well, although the touchscreen can be a tad finicky beneath the plastic cover.

Next we have the GoPro Hero 3. The GoPro isn’t the best option for true photographers, and neither is the iPhone, but it will still get the job done.


Submersible up to 131 feet, this petite camera is great for documenting snorkeling, diving, surfing and anything else you can think of. The GoPro is truly intended for video and offers a resolution of 1080p firing at 30fps. Its stills are somewhat less exciting at 5MP and 3fps, but nevertheless great quality for its convenient size and price. The Hero 3 will set you back $199.99.

nikon_aw1Finally we’ll get into what I think is the future of amateur and professional underwater photography. The Nikon AW1 has only been available for a matter of days, as it was released October 10, 2013. The Nikon 1, the AW1’s predecessor, has been a hot-selling item since its market introduction in 2011 due to its unique design. Being one of the first mirrorless cameras to have transposable lenses, this camera offers tremendous flexibility and convenience. The AW1 takes those elements to the next level by being the “world’s first waterproof, shockproof interchangeable lens camera” ever made. The AW1 has truly come a long way since it was highly inspired by the Calypso and Nikonos cameras developed decades ago.

This camera has some noteworthy tech specs including a 14.2 MP CX Format CMOS sensor, a 73-point phase detection AF in conjunction with a 135-point contrast detection AF, an ISO ranging from 160-6400, underwater distortion and white balance correction, continuous shooting up to 15 fps, a pop-up waterproof flash, and full HD 1080p video. To top it all off, it’s also submersible up to 45 feet.

The camera is compatible with all previous Nikon 1 lenses as well as its own shock and waterproof 1 Nikkor AW 10mm f/2.8 and 11-27.5mm f/3.5-5.6 lenses. Sold with either one lens or both, the Nikon AW1 will set you back between $800-$1000. Being the most fearless compact camera on the market, I can’t wait to read the reviews.

Bring Your Underwater Photography To Life!

Do you have some great underwater photography you would like us to transform into gallery quality wall art?  We have seen some terrific underwater photography come through our shop over the years and the acrylic + metallic photo mounting option really bring them to life!